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Les Cretes Fumin 2003

It’s, like, weeks since I last posted. This long lay-off coincided with my first ever bloggers’ event, at Bibendum. I had a very good time, tasted some interesting wines but I was, I think, slightly put off by the unwavering dedication to blogging exhibited by the capital’s top food and wine bloggers. They dedicate more time to their hobbies than I, a father of two little sleep-stealing time-eaters, can afford mine. Even though it only takes half an hour here and there, it’s either that or do a very small amount of genuine, computer-off relaxing. I did, though, take some very useful notes and didn’t throw them out so the good news is I’m still going to post!

In my time off I’ve still been drinking lots of wine. Highlights: Yali, Winemaker’s Selection Wetland Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Rapel Valley, a Chilean that was recommended by the venerable Jancis Robinson as her wine of the week, while Tesco’s had it in an opening offer at £3.99 a bottle (I didn’t like it quite so much as she did. I reckoned it was good value at that price but not amazing and, at its standard £5.99, probably pretty avoidable), and La Difference Carignan 2008, which I remembered enjoying last year and enjoyed again this – a superior, classy French vin de pays.

But it would take something special to force me to sit, on my own, in the living room after Rachel’s gone to bed, tip-tapping my way across the keyboard. And this is it: another Caves de Pyrene purchase and my first Fumin – not the most obscure Italian grape variety, certainly not if you drink lots of wine from the Valle d’Aosta, but I don’t and it’s obscure enough to impress me.

This could be my favourite Italian red – and I like Italian reds. It’s certainly up there. More approachable than their trademark top wines like Barolo and Brunello, and a much better partner for a full evening. It’s quite Syrah-like but it’s not as heavily oaked as they often are, and it’s a lot less fruity. It’s a very masculine wine. Tar, tobacco and leather. Tannins not overbearing. Alive, bright but serious. It’s really excellent. Note to self: keep an eye out for it in future.

EDIT: I found my receipt from Les Caves, and I’m going to tap it out here for future price-reference. For what it’s worth, this Fumin was an absolute steal.

Pis & Love 2003 – £7.82 / Pinocchio Saniovese 2003 8.70 / Pinot Noir Elio 2005 5.65 / Vaubois Pinot Noir 2005 3.91 / Viu 1 Viu Manent 2006 17.39 / Bartoli Sol e Vento 2007 6.52 / Close Du Tue Rouge La Guerrerie 2006 7.39 / Dom Alexandre Pouilly Fume 7.39 / Les Cretes Fumin 6.52 / Mount Maude Riesling 2004 3.48 / Viu Manent Malbec Blue Label 2007 3.91

Pis & Lov

Pis & LovThe first fruit from my trip to Les Caves du Pyrene is this pleasingly obscure Italian red, a Ravenna Rosso IGT. A cuvee of our best red grapes, they say. They don’t say what grapes they are, but they’ve got sangiovese, albana and trebbiano as well as cabernet sauvignon and syrah and some other ones I’ve never heard of (update: Les Caves suggest it’s made from longanesi, which is as far as I know a first for me, though disappointingly it appears this is a modern variety rather than an ancient Italian obscurity). Instead of a useful description of the wine or why it’s got such a gimicky name, the website asks: “Can a wine help us to remember the importance of a message and to practice what we preach?”

Well, I don’t know and I don’t care. As far as I’m concerned all that matters is what response the wine provokes in me and others like me, drinking innocently in our various corners of the world. What does this mean? What message? What do you preach? I am none the wiser, and a bit narked.

So what of the wine? It’s, well, intriguing. At 14.5%, it’s barely above average when it comes to alcohol, but it seems a little out of balance. The smell of it hits you, like if you’ve got any spare it might do a decent job of sterilising some surgical tools. The tannins are strong too. It’s not a simple sip, for sure. It tastes a bit primitive – which fits nicely with Les Caves’ reputation – and, though it takes a while to get used to, it’s certainly pleasant. I think you need to be quite inquisitive about wine to be into it, though, because it’s not just smooth and comfortable and easy, and is as interesting for its novelty as much as for whatever pleasure it brings. You’ve got to get kicks out of slightly awkward wine to love this one, but for all of that, I do like it. I don’t love it.

Update

It’s October 22nd, and over the last two nights we polished off our second and final bottle of Pis & Lov. On opening, it was really aggressive. I didn’t so much sip it as wrestle with it – and it fought back pretty hard. A day later, however, it had (despite using a VacuVin to theoretically leave the wine hermetically sealed and therefore totally unchanged) totally changed. Much more mellow, and much more pleasant. In fact, really good. I need a decanter, and I need to use it – that’s my lesson from the exercise.

Chilling out

Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2008Apparently we Brits associate summer with pinks. And I guess I’m no different, except the only thing around here that turns pink when the sun comes out is me.

There are some areas of wine which are so large and so unknown, so foreign, that I’m a bit scared of them. Rose is one of those. What I need, I think, is a revelatory moment: to taste one that’s so mind-blowing that I simply have to find out more. So far I’ve only had ones that are unpleasant, or ones that are quite nice. And I want more than quite nice.

So when the sun came out this week, as it did in considerable style (hence my pinkness), I stuck a red in the fridge.

And it was perfect. It’s not a very original recommendation – you can get it anywhere, from about £7 to, if you’re lucky and keep your eyes peeled, just a fraction over £4 (which is what Tesco have been selling it at online for the last couple of weeks, though that’s not where I got it), but it’s a crystal-clear, sparkling ruby jewel of a summer sipper. Plums and cherries, tannins more obvious than they would be at room temperature but still quite gentle. At £4 it’s an incredible bargain. At £6.50 it’s still pretty good value. Yum, basically.

Les Caves, and much more

Vincent Girardin Rully Vielles Vignes 2006Last Friday I visited a wine merchant I’d read a lot about: Les Caves de Pyrene, in Guildford. My trip coincided (not, to be honest, much of a coincidence) with their annual bin end sale, and didn’t disappoint. They had lots of mad stuff, some wines that stank and tasted awful, others that stank and tasted great, lots of excellent discounts, and plenty of things I’d never heard of. I bought a pretty random dozen, Gilad (who came with me), an even more random 19 bottles. We got there two hours into a two-day sale, and they were already selling out of stuff – including, sadly, the handful of bottles of Bierzo (see below, somewhere) that I’d enjoyed at the Modern Pantry.

We didn’t have a lot of time to spend there, because we had lunch booked at Drake’s, a nearby restaurant with a £25 meal deal and one Michelin star. The meal was fine, not wildly exceptional and a bit over-fussy, to my mind. I’d have preferred another hour in the wine shop.

Then a horrific, three-hour journey through evil traffic and, by way of reward, a delicious white Burgundy – not from Les Caves – that showed how good chardonnay can be. Much, much more enjoyable than the flinty, austere new world style of my last bottle of chardonnay, from Maycas del Limari (who haven’t been a great hit with me all round), though at about £14 it’s also 50% more expensive and waaay too much to become a regular chez moi.

Must-eat list

This isn’t, strictly speaking, about wine at all, but I need somewhere to keep my list of places I want to eat. To get here, somewhere needs to be personally recommended to me twice, or once by someone extremely trustworthy, or I need a good review. It’ll start small, and grow…

In no particular order

  • Vrisaki – allegedly London’s best Greek food, promisingly situated (if you like restaurants that are quirkily situated) near Wood Green tube. N22 8LZ, 020 8889 8760 UPDATE Ate here recently with Rob, sharing the mixed meze – enormous, and generally good, but not brilliant. If I go again, I’ll order what I want rather than take what I’m given.
  • Mangal 1 Ocakbasi – good, cheap Turkish grill in Stoke Newington, BYOB with no corkage, E8 2DJ, 020 7275 8981
  • Cafe Anglais – in Queensway, very well reviewed when it opened (and still), W2 4DB
  • Tayyabs – More grilled meat, this time Pakistani cuisine, BYOB with no (or cheap) corkage, no reservations, Spitalfieldsish – E1 1JU, www.tayyabs.co.uk
  • Giaconda Dining Room – great reviews when it opened but when I wanted to go the chef had fallen off his bike and broken his arm. Seems inexpensive for what it is, near Tottenham Court Road. WC2H 8LS, 020 7240 3334
  • Dinings, Marylebone – allegedly top-notch Japanese at decent prices, W1H 4HH, 020 7723 0666
  • Terroirs – food and wine gaff that nobody has anything bad to say about, near Charing Cross station, WC2N 4DW, 020 7036 0660

That is all.

The spice of life

I’ve got loads of exciting white wines at the moment, but I’ve got a problem with reds. I’ve suffered in the past from deciding that I like one and buying a few of them, and as a result I’ve got a few bottles of wines that I’ve already had too many of. I’m thinking Maycas del Limari Reserve Shiraz and, most glaringly of all, a Berberana Etiqueta Negra Rioja Reserva, which I must have bought a year and a half ago and still can’t get through. I must learn that there are lots and lots of exciting wine and there’s no need to get more than a couple of bottles of any of them unless it’s something genuinely exceptional. But then, there are moments when having a stock of your favourite wines comes in handy. For example, I was emailed last week by the man who owns the winery that produced the EOS Petite Sirah that I blogged about a few months ago, thanking me for a positive write-up. So I opened another bottle and, thankfully, it’s still excellent. A meaty, mighty beast that’s really good to crack open every now and then. Sometimes familiarity is what you’re looking for after all.

Salentein Winemaker’s Selection 2004

This is my last bottle of a half-dozen I bought from Tesco’s about a year ago, half-price at around £4, and I don’t know if it’s a fruit day or what but it’s really great tonight. I’m certainly enjoying it more than on previous occasions. I originally thought it was a bit wood-dominated, but now the balance seems spot on. Good, but not overpowering, tannins and great acidity – it’s really mouthwatering. It doesn’t smell of much, which I guess knocks it down a few points, but it’s got wood, liquorice and plums oozing everywhere. Delicious, and absolutely kicking a lot of butt at this price. If I’d known then what I know now, I’d probably have another half-dozen downstairs still.

Tummil Flat Pinot Noir 2006

Bought from Wine Rack a while back. Everywhere else this goes by the name Churton. Why it’s called Tummil Flat over here I don’t know. Anyway, it’s quite good. Not good enough, though. If I’m going to spend over a tenner on a bottle of wine, I want it to be a bit better. On the nose, it’s a winner: dark fruits, but extremely pleasant foresty earthiness. In the mouth, it doesn’t deliver enough. Those fruits again, but not a whole lot else. Soft tannins, not too intrusive. It’s a £6 wine that costs double that because of where it’s from and what grape it’s made from.

Maycas del Limari Syrah Reserva 2007

From Concha Y Toro, via Oddbins who were knocking it off at three for £20 a few weeks ago, encouraging me to snap up half a dozen. People talk about rubber flavours in Chilean wines, and for me this is extremely obvious here. But it’s not unpleasant – a deep, dark ruby colour, dense velvety texture and lots of spicy, blackberry flavours. It’s a good wine, definitely pleasurable to drink, but I don’t find it wildly exciting. It’s a good second wine to open up when you’ve got friends around one evening, but it’s not the brilliant opening gambit which will convince them you’re tremendously stylish and tasteful. Worth what I paid, but not the £9.99 standard price. Others though have been more enthusiastic, so maybe it’s just a root day.

Domaine Clavel, Les Garrigues, 2006

So here’s a reason, albeit a base and cheap one, to love the Wine Society: it’s really good value. Here’s a wine I got in their January clearance for £5.75, down from their usual £7.50. You can’t get it there any more (what with it being in the clearance and everything, it’s been cleared), but you can still get it at Tanners for £9.50. £9.50! That, for me, is quite a posh bottle. £5.75 is everyday drinking. £7.50 is something in between.

So what’s it worth? I like it, but I’m not about to start gushing. A mixture of Syrah (“une bonne moitié pour le fruit”), Grenache and Mourvedre (“pour un assemblage bien languedocien”), it is “un assemblage bien languedocien” – I think you’d probably guess where it’s from pretty quickly. This is country wine, and even if it’s a good example – flavours of dark berries and herbs, length on the good side of medium – it’s not brilliantly refined. The Wine Society priced it about right at the £7ish level.