Sole e Vento 2007

Les Caves de Pyrene have done it again. This wine was interesting from the first glance, which told me it was made from grillo and zibibbo. Then I went to open it, and discovered that it was sealed with a glass “cork”. Though I know that a few hundred wineries use them, I’ve never had one of these before.
And the wine? Surprisingly good. Italian whites, even from the more celebrated areas, often lack a little zing. They’re a bit vague, if that makes any sense. In the summer we spent a fortnight within spitting distance of the Umbrian town of Orvieto – long enough to work out that Orvieto Classicowas just a classic let-down (though I did discover the rather more impressive Greco di Tufo). This, though, was a pleasure. Softer, more gentle than many whites I try – the age, perhaps – it was still really invigorating stuff.


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