Mont Tauch Les Douze Fitou

The second Mont Tauch Fitou I’ve tried, and about as different as it is possible to be. If the last was the bottom of the barrel effort made of the ugliest, most gnarled grapes of the area’s least attractive vines, this is closer to the top of the range. It says something about the nature of the range that even this is only £6.99 at Majestic. It’s actually a really fascinating comparison. It’s not a particularly famous name but there are a lot of Fitous on the market here, and a decent percentage of those come from this cooperative. I could spend an entertaining evening tasting my way through their range.

Apparently competition is fierce among the area’s winemakers to see which will have theirs accepted to make each year’s blend of this wine, which takes the best efforts of the best 12 local viniculturalists to make a superior blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah. It is a full-bodied, tensely-structured mouthful of wintry-evening joy. It doesn’t astonish in any way, it just tastes like a very good example of what you’re expecting. I got it from Carrefour in France at about £5.30, though the way the pound’s going it would be a bit more than that now (and a bit more still tomorrow)

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